There are plenty of cool areas scattered throughout metropolitan Rio. Lucky for you, the normal tourists are clueless. The fanny-pack masses will rarely venture far from Copacabana. Rio de Janeiro is wide-open for discovery. As soon as you wander just a little off of the standard track you become a novelty – the “lost” gringo.
Let's lose ourselves in Gávea – just a short hop from Copacabana, Ipanema and the rest of the zona sul tribe.
Gávea is known as a sort of bohemian hood. I think that’s because there are a lot of artists, students and film & theater people that live here. It also has a history of heavy French influence via the settlers. These days, it’s home to PUC University, a planetarium, theaters of the fine arts and of course, shopping.
Some of Rio’s coolest mansions and private schools are planted into the cinematic mountainsides bordering this hood. Right alongside is huge favela Rocinha. It’s in Gávea that one can observe Brazil’s notorious contrast between the rich and the poor.
And it all makes for a great mix: students, the rich, the poor, the slackers, actors, and cellar dwellers. Well shaken, and stirred.
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Getting there:
Gávea borders São Conrado, Leblon, Lagoa and Jardim Botânico. Coming from Copacabana or Ipanema, you could just walk up to Barata Ribeiro (Copacabana), or General San Martin (Ipanema) and take any bus/van marked “Gávea” – lógico!
Get off at the Shopping da Gávea, or if you’re gong to the Instituto Moreira Salles and you happen to be on the 591, 592 or 593, just stay on and tell someone you want the “instituto”.
Instituto Moreira Salles
I’m really not too big on museums and such, but this place is different. Technically a cultural center, it’s just a really cool place to be. Once the private home to the Salles family (banking industry $$$), this plush-modern home of 19xx now houses a great collection of Brazilian photos, music, and film. It’s completely satisfying to just wander the grounds, gardens and interiors. You’ll get a sense of what it meant to be rich and famous here during Rio’s golden era. Check out the private soccer field. How many servants did it take to keep this place up?
Did I mention that it’s free?
Inside, the collection of photos is very good. Images from all over Brazil, past and present. Locate the “home theater” room where you can sit and watch a slideshow from the collection. When I was there the show was images from the 30’s and 40’s jazz age. They had some very cool haircuts going on back then.
There is also a lovely café/restaurant and gift store. Everything is reasonably priced. Did I mention it’s free to get in? Yes.
Shopping da Gávea
Gávea has one of the best shopping malls in zona sul. Not because it’s the biggest, but because it has a truly great selection of shops. There are lots of smallish boutiques of designer labels – often surprisingly affordable. And of course, Brazilian chain stores that are tying hard to be just like the GAP or Pottery Barn. Just ignore them.
Shopping da Gávea also houses several theaters (performing arts) as well as a brand new and truly luxurious movie theater (5-plex). Check out the lobby. Feels like Phillipe Starck blessed it.
Parque da Cidade
This is well hidden park of significant special ness. Parque da Cidade is a tropical paradise that is wrapped around the side of Dois Irmãos – one of those dramatic bumps that define the landscape here.
Arriving by van/bus you are going to exit at “Parque da Cidade” (got that?) and walk right through the entrance of a favela (also called Parque da Cidade) on into the park. The tranquility will hit you immediately. There is no one else here! I think it’s the favela that keeps people away from this gem. Again, your gain -- the park is yours.
There is no danger here, only giant butterflies and trees with leaves from Jurassic park. Go up up up. The thick forest opens up to various window views down to the zona sul below.
Your brain is now so overloaded with the color green that when you exit the park any other color will seem vivid and new – like hitting the street after a matinee movie.
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New Friends, Same Old Skol
It took me a while to figure this out, but the secret to a good time in Rio is very simple: cold beer, in the street, amongst the locals.
Come to the part of the neighborhood called “Baixo Gávea” on most any Wed, Thurs, or Friday evening (~10:30) and hang out – in the middle of the street.
Bump into a street vendor and grab a cold one. The crowd might seem a little intimidating, but that’s only because this is a more status-seeking crowd. They still love to make new friends and practice their English. Just walk up to a group that you like and ask “é Baixo Gávea aqui?”, or: “Voces moram aqui?”, or even better, “Voce fala inglês?”. These are all good openers. You will soon have some new friends.
There is also a really great bar, restaurant, disco in the hood called zero-zero. It’s located right next to the planetarium. It’s a short walk from baixo gavea – just ask anyone for directions. The dance action starts late, but the restaurant serving contemporary cuisine opens around 7 pm.
Planetário
I’ve never done this but they say that the planetarium here is really good. And as far as I know, they do_not do the “Laserium” thing at all – graças a dues. Seems like a great outing for parents and herbalists. I plan to do a column on “herb” winkwink shopping around Rio, pending further research.
